Few things are as important for your tortoise’s health and well-being as a proper enclosure. Your tortoise’s enclosure becomes his entire world, so it’s vital that you set it up in an appropriate manner to satisfy his needs.
There are a variety of different enclosure designs and concepts that can work, and it is up to each keeper to decide the best option for his or her circumstances. I’m here to help you do exactly that by sharing below some tortoise enclosure ideas that have proven helpful for myself and other keepers.
Just be sure that you tailor the advice provided below to your specific pet, taking into consideration his age, species, and overall health.
Pet Tortoise Needs
Each of the 49 or so tortoise species in the world has slightly different care requirements, but there are two facets of tortoise husbandry that you’ll need to address, regardless of the species you keep. Specifically, you’ll have to provide suitable space and the appropriate type of environment.
Firstly, the space requirements of tortoises vary as significantly as the sizes of different tortoise species do.
At one end of the spectrum, very small species, such as Egyptian tortoises (Testudo kleinmanni), only require about 4 to 5 square feet of space per tortoise. That means an enclosure measuring 36” x 18” would likely suffice for a single individual.
At the opposite end of the spectrum, very large species, such as sulcata tortoises (Centrochelys sulcata), require enormous enclosures, offering 100 to 300 square feet of space per individual. There aren’t any commercially manufactured enclosures of such size, so these tortoises will always need a custom enclosure by the time they’re fully grown.
Medium-sized tortoises, including red footed tortoises (Chelonoidis carbonarius), desert tortoises (Gopherus agassizii), and other species of similar size, will usually thrive best in habitats providing 30- to 60-square-feet of space.
There are a few commercial tortoise habitats that provide about 32 square feet of space, but anything larger will generally need to be custom built.
Regardless of the species you’re keeping, you’ll want to provide your pet with an enclosure that is 6 or 7 times as long and wide as your tortoise’s shell is. In other words, if you have a 1-foot-long tortoise, he’d need an enclosure measuring at least 6 or 7 feet on each side.
But this guideline only provides a bare minimum enclosure size; enclosures twice or thrice as large are strongly preferred.
Once you’ve established enough space for your pet, you must turn your attention to the climatic factors inside the enclosure. This means providing the proper temperatures and relative humidity level, as well as an appropriate lighting setup for your species of tortoise.
In all cases, you’ll have to research the species you intend to keep, as well as the climate of its natural range, to know the exact temperatures you’ll need to provide.
Temperatures
No matter what climate your tortoise experiences in the wild, you’ll want to provide a thermal gradient, or range of temperatures within the enclosure.
In indoor enclosures, this is accomplished by clustering the heating devices (either heat lamps or radiant heat panels) at one end of the enclosure, which will allow your pet to access a range of temperatures by moving closer to or farther from the heating devices.
In outdoor enclosures, you’ll have to lay out the space in a way that accomplishes the same thing by using combinations of sun and shade.
Generally speaking, you’ll want the warm end of the enclosure to be between about 90- and 105-degrees Fahrenheit, while the cool side of the enclosure should be in the low- to mid-70s.
Species from temperate areas – such as Russian tortoises (Testudo horsfieldii) – require temperatures at the cooler end of this range, while species hailing from tropical rainforests or savannahs, such as red-footed tortoises or sulcatas, need temperatures at the warmer end of this range.
Humidity
You can maintain proper relative humidity levels indoors by adjusting the airflow and the amount of water added to the habitat.
In other words, if you need to raise the humidity, you can slightly reduce the amount of ventilation provided and spray the habitat with lukewarm water. Conversely, you can maintain a lower relative humidity level by providing as much ventilation as possible and avoiding adding unnecessary water to the enclosure (though all tortoises should be provided with drinking water).
Adjusting the relative humidity in outdoor enclosures is difficult, but you can do things like wetting the substrate – or keeping the substrate as dry as possible.
Lighting
Tortoises need exposure to full-spectrum lighting (light that includes UVA and UVB wavelengths in addition to visible light) to produce vitamin D3.
This is generally not an issue for tortoises kept in outdoor enclosures; the sun will provide all of the light tortoises need to remain healthy, as long as you don’t live too far north or south of the equator.
It isn’t yet clear what the latitude threshold is at which tortoises stop being able to produce enough vitamin D3 from sunlight. But we do know that humans living between 35 degrees north and 35 degrees south latitude are generally able to produce sufficient vitamin D3 all year long. If you live outside this range, you may not be able to keep your tortoise outdoors on a permanent basis (there is rarely a safe way to install lights outdoors).
Indoor-reared tortoises, on the other hand, must be provided with full-spectrum lighting to allow them to synthesize vitamin D3. So, you’ll need to install special fluorescent tubes or mercury vapor bulbs designed for reptile maintenance.
The former are more affordable, but do not produce heat (so, you’ll need separate lights or heat panels to provide proper temperatures); the latter produce both light and heat, but they’re more expensive.
Tortoise Enclosure Ideas: Commercial and DIY Options
There are an array of commercially manufactured and DIY enclosures available from good retailers and online. Each offers a different set of benefits and drawbacks, which I’ll provide my opinions on below.
But before deciding which type of enclosure will work best for your circumstances, you’ll have to decide whether you want to keep your tortoise indoors, outdoors, or take a hybrid approach (in other words, moving him between an indoor and outdoor enclosure, as temperatures allow).
Outdoor maintenance is preferable where possible, but you’ll have to live in an area with a suitable climate to do so.
Commercial Tortoise Enclosures for Indoor Use
There are two kinds of commercial enclosures available that are suitable for indoor tortoise maintenance, though most are only large enough for juveniles and small adults.
- Tortoise tables: Designed specifically for tortoises, tortoise tables are the best option for most first-time tortoise keepers. These are available in an array of sizes, they typically have built-in lighting supports, and some models can be used outdoors too. Note that while early models were almost always elevated (like tables), some newer models are designed to sit on the floor.
- Front-opening plastic reptile cages: Though large models are expensive, front-opening reptile enclosures can work for some tortoises. However, you may need to add opaque barriers near the bottom one-third of the glass doors, to prevent your tortoises from becoming confused or stressed by the transparent material.
Container-Style Tortoise Enclosure Ideas for Indoor or Outdoor Use
Container-style tortoise enclosures are a do-it-yourself approach that works well for many keepers. They all work the same way: You’ll use the container to form the base of a tortoise habitat and then add some type of top, as well as heating and lighting fixtures, to it.
Most container-style habitats are used indoors, but they can also work outdoors, if you add drainage holes to prevent them from retaining rainwater.
- Children’s swimming pools: Although they aren’t especially attractive, children’s swimming pools make excellent (and affordable) habitats for juveniles and small adults.
- Stock tanks: Typically used to provide water to horses, cows, and other animals, stock tanks can make very durable tortoise enclosures. Some are even large enough for the maintenance of small adults. As a bonus, many come with pre-installed drainage holes.
- Pond liners: Prefabricated pond liners make excellent habitats for juvenile tortoises, and many will accommodate large volumes of substrate, which allow your pets to construct deep tunnels. Pond liners also come in interesting shapes, which provide aesthetics many keepers like.
- Plastic storage containers: Affordable, easy to find, and replaceable, large plastic storage boxes are a popular choice for maintaining young tortoises.
Outdoor Enclosures
Outdoor enclosures almost always allow you to provide more space for your tortoises, but they’re only appropriate for those living in suitable climates.
- Commercial Tortoise Pens: There are a few commercially manufactured tortoise “pens” on the market that are designed for outdoor use. Some commercial pens are even available in sizes large enough for medium-sized tortoises. The best models feature built-in shaded spots and hiding places.
- Custom-Built Enclosures: The most common approach to outdoor tortoise maintenance involves the construction of a DIY enclosure. This is obviously a labor-intensive approach, but it generally yields the best results.
Features and Furnishings
You can’t simply set up an enclosure and consider your work complete. You’ll also need to add the appropriate substrate and furnishings. This generally entails providing the following:
- A suitable substrate: Mulch, soil, sand, and custom-crafted blends are the most common choices. Just be sure that the substrate is suitable for the enclosure humidity level and your tortoise’s digging habits (species who frequently burrow should be provided with substrates that’ll support tunnel formation).
- Hiding spots: All tortoises should be provided with hiding spots, regardless of whether the enclosure is placed indoors or outdoors. You can use natural or natural-looking hiding spots, such as large pieces of cork bark or ceramic pieces, but you can also use simpler, more utilitarian hides. For example, inverted plastic storage containers with doors cut into the side work well.
- Water and food dishes: All tortoises – even those hailing from desert habitats – should always have access to clean, fresh water. So, you’ll need to provide a wide, shallow dish of water. Plastic plant saucers are ideal, but there are also commercial options available. You can also use these types of dishes for your pet’s food.
- Plants: Plants can serve as natural visual barriers, and they’ll also help raise the relative humidity for indoor habitats. Just be sure to use live, non-toxic plants, as your tortoise may try to consume them.
DIY Enclosures
In my view, DIY tortoise enclosures are the best option in most cases, and they’re often the only option for very large species. While the exact design and construction method will vary from one case to the next, there are a few commonalities among various DIY designs.
Planning and Materials
The first thing you’ll need to consider when planning a custom-built enclosure is the space you’ll need to provide. After doing so, you can decide on the shape the enclosure will take (understanding that rectangular shapes are preferable to squares, as they allow for a more drastic thermal gradient).
Next, you can decide on the enclosure materials.
Plastic sheets are ideal, as they’re lightweight and don’t require any sealant, but they can require specialized tools and skills to cut and join. Accordingly, most keepers will opt for wood. Just be sure to purchase a non-toxic sealant to prevent the wood from warping or rotting.
Step-by-Step Building Guide
The basic steps for constructing your tortoise enclosure are as follows:
- Cut the frame pieces – including a removable top — from dimensional lumber, such as 2x2s or 2x4s.
- Assemble the frame using galvanized screws. Use care to ensure no sharp edges, which could injure your pet, are on the inside of the habitat.
- Cut the side panels from plywood. The plywood thickness will vary based on the size of the habitat, with larger enclosures requiring thicker wood. Quarter-inch plywood will suffice for small habitats; larger habitats will need ½ or ¾-inch plywood.
- Attach the plywood pieces to the frame using galvanized screws.
- Apply a pet-safe sealant to the entire structure to protect it from moisture. Be sure to allow it to dry completely before continuing.
- Attach plastic-coated wire to the top using heavy-duty staples or galvanized screws. Then, connect the top to the rest of the frame using hinges and the appropriate hardware.
- Install the heating and lighting fixtures. Place them at one end of the habitat to provide a thermal gradient.
- Test and adjust the heating devices until the correct temperature range is reached.
- With the basic structure complete, you can now add substrate, enclosure furnishings (such as hides), and water dishes to the enclosure.
At this point, the enclosure should be completely assembled, the furniture should be in place, and the temperature levels should be correct. So, you can now add your pet!
Common Mistakes
Many keepers – especially new keepers – make mistakes when setting up their tortoise enclosure. To avoid making these mistakes yourself, try to learn from the keepers who’ve come before you.
A few of the most common mistakes include:
- Not preventing tunneling escapes from outdoor enclosures. Many tortoises are accomplished burrowers, who’ll readily dig beneath their enclosure walls, so make sure the enclosure walls extend at least 1 foot below ground level.
- Using enclosures made from unfinished wood. Unfinished wood will absorb moisture and odors, and it’ll also harbor bacteria in some cases. Always use a reptile-safe sealant to protect the wood.
- Failing to prevent climbing escapes. Some tortoises can climb a bit, and they may escape from enclosures without tops. Ideally, you’ll add a lid over the entire enclosure, but if this is not possible, a small “rim” around the periphery of the enclosure will help limit escapes.
- Not protecting your tortoises from predators (including other pets). Despite their protective shells, tortoises are at risk from a variety of predators, ranging from cats and dogs to coyotes and rats. A sturdy top will provide some protection.
Citations and References
- Arbor View Animal Hospital – Sulcatas/African Spurred Tortoises
- Chicago Exotics Animal Hospital – Red-foot Tortoise Care
