In their natural habitat Russian tortoises are opportunistic feeders, battling against rocky terrain and the harsh, arid landscapes. This feast or famine and constant foraging way of life means that in captivity, their food intake and enrichment activities must be carefully monitored by keepers.
Indeed, an easy and lazy life can make them prone to overeating and subsequent obesity. As an owner, it’s critical to understand this correlation between their adaptations in the wild and how it con impact their life in captivity, because once mastered, Russian tortoises make rewarding and life-long pets.
In this article, I’ll be explaining the essential nutritional requirements of a Russian tortoise, highlighting how these needs differ from other commonly kept tortoises. You’ll discover the importance of a well-balanced diet, explore the recommended foods for Russian tortoises, and learn why incorporating the right mix of vitamins and minerals will help to support your pet’s long-term well-being.
Natural Habitat
The native range of Russian tortoises primarily spans the arid regions of Central Asia, across countries like Russia, Iran, Afghanistan, Pakistan, and parts of Kazakhstan.
These tortoises live naturally in environments with desert-like conditions and extreme temperature variations. Summers can be very hot, often exceeding 100°F, while winters can be long and cold, sometimes dropping below freezing.
Also known as Horsfield tortoises, Russian tortoises are adapted to survive these temperature fluctuations by burrowing deep into the ground in search of a cool retreat during the heat of the day and insulation from the cold and at nighttime. They also spend up to 5 months of the year hibernating.
The terrain in which they live is rocky and sandy and vegetation is generally low-growing and sparse. They feed on a variety of wild grasses, weeds, and leafy plants, which are often tough and fibrous. The availability of food varies seasonally, with more abundance in the spring and early summer.
Behavior and Temperament in The Wild
In the wild, Russian tortoises are subjected to significant seasonal variations. In the spring, when vegetation is more abundant, they are highly active and eat more to build up reserves for the harsher seasons.
During periods of extreme temperatures, they spend a considerable amount of time in burrows. This behavior not only provides shelter but also influences their eating patterns.
In summer they forage in the early morning or late afternoon when temperatures are cooler, avoiding the midday heat. Conversely in winter, they hibernate in burrows to conserve energy when food supplies are scarce.
Russian tortoises tend to be territorial and prefer solitude or minimal interaction with other tortoises. In the wild, their foraging areas can be quite expansive, and they typically avoid confrontation by spreading out over a large area.
A to Z Safe Foods for Russian Tortoise Diet
In the wild Russian tortoises are strictly herbivores with their diet mainly consisting of tough, fibrous plants, weeds, and grasses.
When it comes to caring for Russian Tortoises in captivity, owners should provide the same types of food, however, to ensure a good nutrient intake, it’s important to offer variety.
In the list below I have provided a list of suitable foods from each of the following categories: grasses and hay, leafy greens, and vegetables as follows:
| Type | Nutrition | Frequency |
| Alfalfa hay | High calcium and protein content | Occasional |
| Apple | Small pieces in without seeds | Rarely |
| Bell Peppers | High in vitamins A and C | In moderation |
| Bermuda grass | High in fiber but low in calcium | In moderation |
| Bermuda hay | High in fiber and helps digestion | Regularly |
| Blackberries | A good source of vitamins and fiber | Rarely |
| Blueberries | Rich in antioxidants and vitamins | Rarely |
| Bok Choy | Contains goitrogens | Occasional |
| Carrots | Rich in beta-carotene but high sugar content | Occasional |
| Collard Greens | High in calcium and fiber | Regularly |
| Dandelion | Both flowers and leaves are highly nutritious | Regularly |
| Endive | Rich in vitamins and minerals | Regularly |
| Escarole | Good vitamin and mineral content | Regularly |
| Fescue | Highly nutritious but also has high protein | Occasional |
| Fig | Nutrient-dense but very high in sugar | Rarely |
| Grape Leaves | Nutritious and safe but do contain oxalates | Occasional |
| Hibiscus | Flowers and leaves are both safe and nutritious | Regularly |
| Kale | Packed with vitamins but high goitrogen content | In moderation |
| Kentucky Bluegrass | Nutritious and easy for tortoises to digest | Regularly |
| Mango | Rich in vitamins but high in sugar | Rarely |
| Marigold | Edible flowers | Occasional |
| Melon | Hydrating and loved by most tortoises | Rarely |
| Mulberry Leaves | Rich in nutrients | Regularly |
| Mustard Greens | Nutritious but high oxalate content | Occasional |
| Nasturtium | Flowers and leaves are both safe | Occasional |
| Orchard grass | Soft texture and high in fiber | Regularly |
| Orchard hay | Soft and palatable | Regularly |
| Pansy | Edible flowers | In moderation |
| Papaya | Provides enzymes that aid digestion | Rarely |
| Pear | Safe in small amounts but high sugar content | Rarely |
| Petunia | Flowers are safe | In moderation |
| Pumpkin | High in fiber and vitamins | Occasional |
| Radicchio | High in vitamins | Regularly |
| Raspberry Leaves | Edible and safe | Occasional |
| Romaine Lettuce | High water content and fiber | In moderation |
| Rose Petals | Flowers & leaves are safe but beware of pesticides | Regularly |
| Rye grass | Safe but contains high protein | Occasional |
| Squash | Nutritious and safe | In moderation |
| Strawberries | High in vitamin C and antioxidants | Rarely |
| Strawberry Leaves | Safe and nutritious | Occasional |
| Timothy grass | High in fiber and low in protein | Regularly |
| Timothy hay | Excellent source of fiber, helps in digestion | Regularly |
| Turnip Greens | High in calcium and vitamins | Regularly |
| Wheat grass | High in fiber and vitamins | Occasional |
| Zucchini | Low in calories | In moderation |
How and When to Feed
Variety is the key when it comes to a happy and healthy tortoise. Stick to a regular feeding schedule and try to provide a selection of 3-5 different items from the list above at every mealtime.
When it’s time to feed my tortoises, I plate up a mixture of 90% leaves, weeds, hay and grass with the remining 10% made up with a few flowers and vegetables.
Any larger or tougher pieces are chopped up or shredded and I always remove any wilted, moldy, or spoiled foods as this can cause potential digestive issues, infection and even parasites.
When it comes to fruit, I only offer it on very rare occasions. This is not because they don’t like it – they absolutely do go crazy for it – but it just doesn’t agree with their digestive system, and I end up clearing extra soiled substrate for the next 24+ hours!
My adults get fed every other day. I put some of their food mix on the feeding plate and I scatter the rest in the cooler areas of their enclosure to encourage them to forage and to get a little exercise. I found that leaving it all out on the feeding plate was making them lazy and less inclined to move about.
When I have hatchings, I feed them daily with a chopped-up version of the same mix I use for the adults. I leave the plate near to them and set a timer for 30 minutes. Whatever hasn’t been eaten after the time is up, I remove.
I tend to go foraging for weeds and leaves on a weekly basis. Once I’ve given it a wash, I place it in a ziplock plastic bag and put it in the bottom compartment of my refrigerator. This makes it much easier when it comes to feeding times and I find that it stays fresh for 5-7 days.
I’m also lucky enough to have space to grow veggies and weeds in my back yard which sees my tortoises through the summer months. Out of season, I buy vegetables from the grocery store and give them a thorough wash when I get home and keep them refrigerated until needed.
I buy hay wholesale from a local supplier and keep it stored away in a dry area until needed.
Unsafe Foods
The advice I have given above is intended as a framework from which to get started. After all, each tortoise is different in terms of their preferences, overall nutrient needs and food volume requirements, and no doubt you’ll need to make some adjustments.
So now you know what they can eat, lets look at a list of foods that you should NOT feed your Russian tortoise:
Meat or dairy
Russian tortoises require a very low-protein diet. Though they may happen across the occasional carrion in the wild, these foods contain far too much protein for them to safely eat and should therefore, be avoided.
High-protein vegetation
Some vegetables, legumes and hay contain high levels of protein and are not safe for tortoises. Avoid beans, peas, and large amounts of fescue, rye and Alfalfa hay as they contain high amounts of protein.
Too much Fruit
Russian tortoises have a digestive system that is adapted to process high-fiber, low-sugar foods. The excess sugar in fruit can cause digestive issues and obesity.
Additionally, many fruits have a disproportionate calcium to phosphorus ratio. Too much phosphorus can affect the tortoise’s ability to absorb calcium, potentially leading to metabolic bone disease.
Grains
Grains such as wheat and barley contain relatively high amounts of protein so these should be avoided.
Vegetables containing oxalates
Although vegetables such as spinach, chard, cabbage, broccoli and beetroot contain an array of nutrients, they also contain high levels of oxalates and should be avoided or offered on very rare occasions.
This compound is known to bind with calcium which in turn prevents proper absorption and can result in kidney disease.
Vegetables containing goitrogens
Vegetables from the brassica family should be fed in moderation or not at all. I avoid cabbage and cauliflower and will only feed them kale and broccoli on the rare occasion.
Most brassicas contain high levels of goitrogens which can interfere with thyroid activity and possibly damage the liver and kidney.
Vitamins and Minerals
Calcium is vitally important to the overall health of tortoises, and a deficiency can result in poor bone, growth rate abnormalities and shell development and even Metabolic Bone Disease.
If you’re concerned that your Russian tortoise is not getting a good mix of vitamins and minerals or you are seeing signs of poor growth rate, shell deformities and even fractures, it may be worth supplementing their diet with a vitamin and mineral formula.
If in doubt, book a check-up with your veterinarian to determine the best supplementation routine for your pet.
Diet Related Health Problems
In the section below, I’ve put together a list of the most common Russian tortoise health issues that are directly attributable to poor diet.
If symptoms are spotted early, it’s possible to treat most of these common health issues with a few tweaks to your tortoises’ diet and/or a vitamin or mineral supplement.
However, if problems persist or get worse, it’s worth contacting your veterinarian for advice and support.
| Issue | Symptoms | Causes |
| Calcium Deficiency | Shell softening or deformity leading to Metabolic Bone Disease. | Lack of UVB light, lack of calcium-rich foods, excessive phosphorus in diet. |
| Oxalate Buildup | Kidney stones, lethargy, loss of appetite, stress, shell softening or deformities. | Feeding excessive amounts of food containing high oxalates, lack of variety in diet, calcium deficiency. |
| Improper Growth | Rapid growth, obesity, shell deformities (pyramiding). | Under or overfeeding, lack of calcium, excess protein, dehydration. |
| Toxic Shock Syndrome | Digestive issues, Diarrhea. | Gut bacteria imbalance caused by excessive sugar or acid from fruit. |
| Uric Acid Buildup | Kidney or bladder stones, gout, joint pain, heart conditions. | Excessive amounts of protein in diet. |
Citations
- European Studbook Foundation – All about Vitamins and Minerals in Tortoises
- Merck Veterinary Manual – Metabolic and Endocrine Diseases of Reptiles
