The red-footed tortoise (Geochelone carbonaria) is a South American tortoise popular in the pet trade. This mid-sized tortoise can dwarf other domesticated species like the Russian tortoise but is nowhere near the size and weight of a ‘true’ giant like the Sulcata tortoise.
Size isn’t the only standout characteristic of this tortoise. The red-footed tortoise also boasts unique colouring, including its namesake red feet.
Every pet tortoise needs space to roam, bask, and enjoy its life. In this red footed tortoise size guide, you’ll learn just how big your pet tortoise will get and how long it will take to get there.
Red-Footed Tortoise Growth and Size
With the right type of care, Red footed tortoises can live up to 50 years or longer in captivity. It takes about 10 years for a tortoise to reach its adult size. Breeding can start as early as 5 years old, though eggs born to particularly young tortoises are usually infertile.
According to the Smithsonian’s National Zoo, the red-footed tortoise is one of the only pet tortoise species where the males are larger than the females. Adult male tortoises measure an average of 12.5 inches. Meanwhile, mature female tortoises measure about 11 to 11.5 inches.
Some tortoises grow bigger than their friends, regardless of sex. The largest known red-footed tortoises have measured about 16 inches long and weighed up to 30 pounds!
Hatchling red-footed tortoises measure less than 2 inches long for the first several months. At one year old, a baby tortoise should measure between 3 and 4 inches long.
For the first 10 years of a young tortoise’s life, it will grow up to 1 inch per year (assuming a proper diet and good overall health). Growth will naturally slow as the tortoise reaches maturity.
Tortoises and turtles continue growing throughout their entire lives. You may not notice your adult tortoise getting bigger each year, but its shell and body will nonetheless keep growing.
Housing Requirements Based on Size
I recommend a minimum enclosure size of 4 feet by 8 feet for one adult red-footed tortoise. Some people recommend enclosures that are slightly smaller (e.g., 3 feet by 6 feet), but bigger is always better when it comes to housing a tortoise.
A young tortoise needs less space relative to its body measurement. Keep in mind, however, that your tortoise will eventually reach full size and require that extra space to stay happy and healthy.
Most pet red-footed tortoises live outdoors (either all or a majority of the time). These tortoises need a lot of heat and humidity—conditions that are hard to replicate indoors—and require more space than the average indoor enclosure can provide.
Indoor Housing Solutions
The square footage required for an adult red-footed tortoise can be prohibitive in many homes. A single tortoise can easily take up more than half of a small bedroom.
The key difference between enclosures for red-footed tortoises and most other species is that you need to invest in covered housing. Traditional tortoise tables (which are fully open on top) are no good at trapping heat and humidity.
Wood is by far the best material for an indoor red-footed tortoise enclosure. A wood enclosure will help insulate your tortoise, protecting it from the cool, dry air likely found throughout the rest of your home.
There’s one scenario where a smaller indoor enclosure is appropriate: when you need a temporary home for your outdoor tortoise. I know some tortoise owners bring their pets indoors only during bad weather. Since the tortoises in question are only spending a few hours at a time indoors, they don’t need a full enclosure at their disposal.
Outdoor Enclosure Recommendations
Red-footed tortoises thrive outdoors in warmer climates. If your region stays above 80°F and has high humidity (about 70 to 80%), then a red-footed tortoise will likely be very happy in your yard or garden!
Housing your tortoise outdoors often means more available space. You’ll want to use some of this extra space to incorporate different ‘zones’ within the enclosure. For example, every outdoor enclosure should include some shade where the tortoise can cool off as needed. This is particularly important for red-footed tortoises, whose dark shells soak up sunlight like crazy.
Providing adequate space will also encourage your tortoise to walk around—valuable exercise for these slow-moving creatures—and improve its mental well-being. Many owners fill their tortoise enclosures with different substrates to create more variety.
Outdoor pens don’t need to be (completely) enclosed. However, the height of the enclosures is important. I recommend enclosure sides that are at least 16 inches tall to prevent your tortoise from clambering up and over. It’s also a good idea to extend the walls several inches below ground, as red-footed tortoises occasionally burrow.
Nutrition and Size
Red-footed tortoises are pretty adaptable eaters, at least compared to other pet tortoise species. Wild red-footed tortoises primarily eat fruit, leafy greens, and invertebrates. You should try to replicate this diet as best you can.
A proper diet is key to a healthy tortoise. It also plays a big role in managing tortoise size. Overfeeding is a common issue among pet tortoises and can cause growth deformities if left unchecked.
Dietary Needs
About 95% of your tortoise’s diet should come from things like grass, vegetables, weeds, and bits of fruit. The other 5% should be protein.
Red-footed tortoises are naturally omnivorous. Their guts are designed to break down animal proteins much more effectively than purely grazing tortoises. In fact, too little protein can lead to some serious health conditions.
Animal protein can come in several different forms. Personally, I prefer protein in the form of earthworms, roaches, and slugs. I know some owners rely on protein-rich tortoise chow to meet their red-footed tortoises’ dietary needs. Others cut up unseasoned chicken breast or boiled eggs for their tortoises. I’ve even heard of tortoise owners offering frozen mice (sold at pet stores for a variety of reptiles).
Red footed tortoises can tolerate more fruit than most other species. It’s important to point out, however, that the fruit found in these tortoises’ natural habitats is a lot less sweet than the fruit you or I eat. I recommend feeding fruit like melon or papaya as part of a regular diet. Sweet fruits like strawberries or bananas can be offered as occasional treats.
Many red-footed tortoise owners offer cuttlefish bone as an interactive calcium supplement. Since not all tortoises take to this calcium source, however, I highly recommend adding a powder supplement to your tortoise’s regular meals as well.
Tips for Managing a Healthy Size
As a general rule, adult red-footed tortoises can be fed every 1 to 2 days. Younger tortoises (those that are still rapidly growing) should be offered food daily. Whether or not the food gets eaten is up to the tortoise, but it should always be available.
Foods that should be available at every meal include a variety of grasses, hays, vegetable greens, and broadleaf weeds. These foods make up the bulk of a healthy tortoise’s diet.
Grocery store produce (e.g., carrots, melon) can be offered alongside your tortoise’s regular meals. Think of these fruits and veggies as the side to your tortoise’s main entree.
Protein is a small but important part of the red footed tortoise’s diet. You should offer protein a couple of times per month as part of your tortoise’s regular meals.
Common Nutritional Issues
Overfeeding is a common problem among all pet tortoise species. Foods that are high in fat or sugar are particularly problematic. Also, both too little and too much protein can be dangerous for red-footed tortoises.
Feeding too little protein can cause stunted growth and, in some cases, neurological problems in otherwise healthy tortoises. A diet too high in animal protein can contribute to obesity and shell deformities caused by rapid growth.
Red-footed tortoises that are fed a 100% plant-based diet may also develop fertility problems. This might only seem to be an issue if you plan to breed your tortoises, but it is also a clear sign that something is up with your tortoise’s health.
Because red-footed tortoises prefer high humidity, uneaten food can go bad super quickly! Build a strong habit of cleaning out any uneaten food as soon as possible to prevent pest or disease issues.
All domestic tortoises are susceptible to vitamin and mineral deficiencies. Calcium and vitamin D both need to be supplemented for optimal health (you can provide calcium via dietary supplements and vitamin D via a high-quality UVA/UVB lamp).
Vitamin A is another somewhat common deficiency in red-footed tortoises. While a well-rounded diet should keep this deficiency at bay, your vet may also recommend supplementation.
Citations
- Smithsonian’s National Zoo Red-footed tortoise
- Royal Veterinary College Red-Footed Tortoise Care
