Red-Foot Tortoise Care Guide

The Red-footed tortoise is known for their relatively sociable nature and striking coloration, making them a popular choice among tortoise keepers. Their scientific name ‘Chelonoidis ‘carbonarius’’ is a reference to their black skin and red patches that resemble glowing coals.

True to their common name, they are easily recognizable by their dark shell adorned with lighter, often reddish or yellowish, spots. Similarly, their limbs, particularly the forelegs, display striking red or orange scales too.

Their diverse range of natural habitats ranges from humid rainforests to dry savannas and includes east of the Andes to northern Argentina in South America, as well as southern Central America and several Caribbean islands. 

This article explains what you need to know about Red-foot tortoise care, and what you can do to mimic their natural habitat as closely as possible. You’ll learn all about enclosure requirements, environmental conditions and diet, as well as health and well-being advice to make sure your Red-foot lives a long and healthy life.

Growth and Life Cycle

Captive red-foot tortoises can live up to 50 years or more and can grow up to 18 inches in length. 

Adult males generally have a conclave plastron and an indentation on either side of their carapace (shell) that is often described as a figure of eight or peanut-shaped. Males also have a longer tale, in some cases up to 3 inches. 

Here’s a guide to help you track the growth of your red-foot tortoise:

For hatchlings, expect a weight gain of 5-10 grams monthly. Red-foot tortoise size and growth rates can vary, but any significant deviations should be monitored for potential health problems, environmental issues or any potential diet adjustments that may be required.

Enclosure Setup

Creating the right habitat for your Red-foot tortoise starts with deciding whether your climate is suitable for them to live outdoors. 

They require a constant daytime temperature of between 80°F and 90°F, with a basking spot reaching 95°F. Nighttime temperatures should not drop below 70°F. 

If temperatures in your region differ from this or winter temperatures are a lot cooler, you’re going to need an indoor enclosure for all or at least some of the year.

Once you have determined where to locate your tortoise’s enclosure, you can get to work on how large it needs to be. For one Red-footed tortoise. you will need an enclosure space of at least 8 feet by 4 feet for a single adult. Add an extra 2 Sq. Foot for each additional tortoise.

The enclosure should have sturdy walls and a secure top to prevent escapes and protect against predators.

Substrate

The substrate of the enclosure should mimic a forest floor. I recommend an even split of cypress mulch, coconut coir, and sphagnum moss at a depth of at least 6 inches. 

This enables moisture retention without becoming soggy while also allowing for natural digging behaviors. 

Make sure you remove any spoiled substrate each day to prevent a build-up of bacteria, potential infection or the risk of your tortoise ingesting any nasties.

Temperature

An outdoor enclosure will need to be positioned with one area in full sun so that your tortoise can bask, plus a cooler area that can provide shade such as hiding spots, shelter and vegetation.

Its best to set up a temperature gradient for indoor enclosures. This involves using a combination of heat lamps and/or ceramic heaters to keep one end of the enclosure at the required 80°F and 90°F, with a basking spot reaching 95°F. 

Providing a hiding spot or shelter at the opposite end of the enclosure will ensure your tortoise has an area in which it can cool down.

The heat source will need to be turned off or dialed down at night to mimic the nighttime drop in temperature.

It’s important that enclosure temperatures are constantly monitored and heat devices come fitted with a dimmer switch or thermostat so they can be adjusted easily. 

Prolonged cold temperatures can lead to a slow metabolism, lethargy, loss of appetite and may lead to stress. Conversely, excessively high temperatures can result in dehydration and potential death.

Light

Red-footed tortoises require daily UVB light to enable them to absorb calcium effectively and ultimately prevent metabolic bone disease, shell deformities and weak bones. 

UVB bulbs are only usually required for indoor enclosures and will need to be switched on for 10-12 hours per day.  

Use a Solarmeter to position the bulb(s) so that the base of the enclosure has a UVI range of 4.0 to 6.0. Check the UV output every 4-6 months and replace as necessary. 

Humidity

In their natural habitat, Red-footed tortoises are adapted to humidity levels in the region of 70-80%, and this needs to be maintained for captive-bred Red-foots too.

I recommend investing in a hygrometer to monitor and maintain humidity. You can increase humidity by misting the substrate daily and/or placing a shallow water tray in the basking area. However, you will need to avoid excess moisture and soggy substrate, as this can lead to respiratory infections. Do this by ensuring the enclosure is well-ventilated.

Access to Water

To prevent dehydration, it’s important to provide your Red-foot with a shallow water dish that is large enough for them to soak in. Change the water daily to keep it clean and prevent bacteria, disease and infection.

Regular soaking (every 2-3 days) will encourage them to stay hydrated as well as wash away debris and potential bacteria. Plus, if you do it for them, you’ll get to check them over. 

Pay particular attention to their eyes, mouth, nose and cloaca for any signs of mucus or infection. If you do spot anything, now is the ideal time to give them a clean and monitor over the coming days.

Also, when bathed in warm water, tortoises tend to empty their bladder and bowels. It’s a great way to reduce your spot-cleaning tasks!

Diet and Nutrition

In the wild, Red-foot tortoises have an omnivorous diet, consuming a variety of plant matter, occasional animal protein, flowers, fungi and fruits. 

In captivity, their diet should primarily consist of leafy greens plus occasional fruits, flowers, and weeds. In addition, they need occasional protein sources such as earthworms, insects or snails. This helps to replicate their natural diet and avoid health issues such as leg paralysis, low fertility and reduced mortality rates of offspring.

When it comes to high fiber and calcium food sources, I recommend feeding 3-4 different types from the list below at every meal. Hatchlings and juveniles can be fed once per day, but adults need only be fed every other day.

Variety is really the key as it helps to increase nutrient intake and provide interest and enrichment. Also, it should go without saying that all leaves, flowers, fruit, vegetables etc should be free from pesticides and fresh.

As for protein, Red-foots that live outdoors will opportunistically forage on bugs, earthworms and slugs when burrowing in the substrate. If they live indoors, it’s worth providing them with protein sources such as baby mice, boiled eggs, worms and pieces of chicken once every 3-4 weeks.

Foods to Avoid

There are plants that can cause significant health issues for tortoises and should be avoided completely or offered very occasionally in small amounts.

For example, many varieties of leafy greens, legumes, and fruit are high in oxalates. Whilst they may be rich in beneficial nutrients, oxalic acid is a compound that binds to calcium as it leaves the body and can increase the risk of kidney stones.

For this reason, avoid feeding your tortoise spinach, beets, raspberries, Chard, parsley, dock leaves and celery. 

Plants that contain goitrogens are also harmful to tortoises and are known to cause thyroid activity problems that can damage the liver and kidneys. For this reason, avoid offering brassicas such as cabbage, cauliflower and broccoli.

Supplementation

Calcium supplementation is crucial for Red-foot tortoises to ensure healthy bones and to avoid shell deformities such as shell pyramiding and Metabolic Bone Disease. 

You can either dust their food with a calcium supplement with each feed or provide a cuttlebone in the enclosure for them to gnaw on. 

Health and Wellness

Red-foot tortoises are generally robust, but they can be susceptible to respiratory infections, shell deformities, and parasites. 

Shell pyramiding is also a common problem in many tortoise species and is characterized by a softening of the shell (in advanced cases), which starts off as a build-up of keratin in the scutes. 

This condition has several causes in captive tortoises, including excessive protein, lack of calcium, lack of fiber, lack of exercise, excessive humidity and a lack of UVB. 

This problem typically occurs because of poor husbandry, which just reinforces the important role that keepers play in ensuring that their pet’s environment mimics their natural environment as closely as possible. This means adequate enclosure space and environmental conditions, as well as the right type of diet.  

Generally, symptoms of illness in tortoises can include wheezing, lethargy, bubbling at the nose or mouth, swollen eyes, loss of appetite and lesions or sores on the shell or skin.

The best way to spot health problems early on is to monitor your tortoise’s growth rate, activity, cleanliness and behavior by performing regular checks as follows:

Daily Checks

• Monitor your tortoise’s activity, appetite, and general health daily. 
• Remove soiled substrate and leftover food.
• Provide fresh water.

Weekly Checks

• Inspect for clear eyes, clean nostrils, and a healthy shell. Any debris or mucus should be cleaned away and monitored for recurrence.

Monthly Checks

• Deep clean the enclosure, removing all substrate and sanitizing with a pet-friendly cleaner. 
• Weigh your tortoise monthly to monitor growth and health.

Veterinary Care

It’s well worth establishing a relationship with a reptile veterinarian that is experienced in tortoise care. 

I recommend regular 6-monthly check-ups to monitor their health and address any concerns promptly. 

Ensure your vet performs fecal tests to check for parasites and is willing to provide guidance on any necessary treatments, changes to diet and husbandry adjustments that may be required.

Providing a Stress-free Environment

Red-foot tortoises are curious and active creatures. They need a variety of hiding spots, logs, and plants to encourage exploration and natural behaviors. 

You should also provide enrichment activities such as hiding their food and items such as rocks, branches, and climbing structures that help to keep your tortoise mentally stimulated.

Social Interaction

Red-foot tortoises can be housed together if provided with ample space and resources, but you will need to monitor their interactions closely to prevent aggression. 

If housing multiple tortoises, I recommend one male and multiple females rather than a group of males. Make sure you provide lots of hiding spots and basking areas to reduce competition.

Handling 

Red-foot tortoises may take time to adjust to handling. Make sure to minimize unnecessary handling, loud noises, and sudden movements that can cause stress.

Over time, they will learn to become more accustomed to your presence and routine and may begin to show their own personalities.

Breeding 

It can take between 5 to 8 years for a red-footed tortoise to grow big enough to become sexually mature.

Captive Red-foots can mate at any time of year, but most often takes place after increased levels of rain. This is symbiotic with wild red-foots who mate after the rainy season. 

In the wild, the males will signal to one another with a series of head jerks and will battle each other for breeding rights, with the victor flipping the challenger. This rarely happens in captive breeding as the competition tends to be less intense.

When copulation occurs, the female will raise her rear leg to assist the male and the male will use his concave plastron to leverage himself into position whilst making low grunting sounds. 

Females start nesting approximately 6 weeks after mating by burrowing into the ground. Once her eggs are laid, her maternal duties are done, and it can take 4-6 months for them to hatch. 

The size of the clutch varies from 4 to 15 eggs and is largely dependent on the size of the female and her state of health. Females may lay more than one clutch per season.

In captive breeding, I recommend transferring the eggs to an incubator set at a temperature of 82-85°F. The sex of the hatchlings is influenced by the surrounding temperature with males hatching at lower temperatures compared to females.

Young are approximately 1.5 – 2 inches in length and weigh about an ounce at hatching. 

Keep hatchlings in a separate enclosure with similar conditions to adults but with higher humidity levels of 80-85%. 

Provide finely chopped greens and calcium-dusted food to support their rapid growth.

Ethical Considerations

Traditionally, these tortoises have been most threatened by habitat loss and by over-hunting. Throughout much of their native range, their meat is considered a delicacy, and because they are unable to put up a fight or run away, they are easily caught and sold illegally as pets.

Red-footed tortoises are protected under Appendix II of the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species (CITES), which means that they cannot be exported from any home country without a permit.

This means that breeders need to provide certification of their authenticity when selling, and I encourage you to check breeders out by researching their credentials.

Alternatively, there are many re-homing projects and organisations in place across the US and Europe. Perhaps you might want to consider adopting a tortoise instead.

Citations

• San Francisco Zoo – Red-Footed Tortoise Facts
• Royal Veterinary College – Red-Footed Tortoise Care
• Redfoottortoise.com – Red Foot Tortoise Diet