African Sulcata Tortoise Care Guide

The Sulcata (Geochelone sulcata ) is the third largest tortoise and a giant among the species. Their thick sandy-colored skin and light brown shell mean they are perfectly camouflaged for the desert conditions in which they reside.  

Their broad, oval shell (Carapace) is yellowy brown in color and has distinct grooves both at its front and back edges. 

The shield-like plates on a tortoise’s shell are known as scutes. On a Sulcata, these scutes feature noticeable growth rings and become more pronounced with markings as the tortoise ages. 

Sulcata tortoises are easily identifiable thanks to the two or three horn-shaped scales on the rear surface of their thighs. 

These are conical shaped and are also known as ‘spurs’, which gives the species its other name – African Spurred Tortoise. While on their forelimbs, they have large overlapping scales.

Other noticeable features include a slightly hooked upper mandible (or jaw), and a yellowish / off-white-colored flat area of the shell, located on the tortoise’s underbelly and known as the plastron. 

Habitat

Sulcata tortoises are native to the southern regions of the Sahara Desert and Sahel in Africa, from Senegal in the west to Sudan, Eritrea, and Ethiopia in the east. This environment is characterized by its aridity, with sparse vegetation and a significant temperature variation between day and night. 

These gentle giants have evolved to tolerate this diverse ecosystem and the extreme temperature fluctuations of the region by digging burrows in dry scrubs and semi-arid grasslands. 

Owning a Sulcata takes dedication and as you’re about to find out, replicating their native habitat in a domestic setting needs careful consideration, specialist equipment, and requires a high degree of care. 

Size

Adult Sulcata tortoises can weigh between 75 to 100 lbs, and have a shell length of up to 2.5 ft. Typically, males are more significant than females, with noticeably larger shells and longer tails. Their distinguishable ‘spurs’ vary in numbers. Don’t be surprised if yours has two one one thigh and three on the other.

Sulcatas have four life stages: hatchlings, juvenile, sub-adult and adult, and typically live up to 55 years as pets or in captivity. Whereas in the wild, they can live up to 75 years. 

The table below shows the duration, weight, and length of Sulcata tortoises during each of their four growth stages.

Enclosures

If you’re thinking of making a Sulcata your pet, you will need space – and lots of it. 

Hatchlings may look cute and only require a modest-sized enclosure, but within 2 years, you will need a 32 sq ft enclosure, increasing to 312 sq ft once your Sulcata has reached full maturity. 

Work on the basis that an enclosure should measure 10X the length, 5X the width, and 3X the height of your tortoise. Here’s a breakdown of the space you will need to accommodate a Sulcata during each growth phase.

When deciding which enclosure to buy, there are a few things to consider. 

Tortoise tables are a reasonably priced enclosure option for hatchlings and if you buy one big enough, it could also accommodate a juvenile. Simply partition off a smaller section of an 8 ft x 2 ft enclosure to keep your baby tortoise in check and remove the partition as it gets larger.

The downside of tortoise tables is they don’t have a lid. This can be problematic if you have other pets or keep your Sulcata outdoors. Hatchlings and juveniles can be vulnerable to predators, so you will need to secure the enclosure with a mesh cover. 

Alternatively, you could buy a suitably sized reptile enclosure from a reputable retailer such as Custom Reptile Habitats or American Enclosures.

From sub-adulthood onward, Sulcatas will need a significantly larger enclosure. Sourcing and transporting an enclosure of this size can be a challenge, and so it tends to be more cost-effective to construct your own. 

For this, you will need appropriately sized lumber, plywood, or OSB (see sizing chart above). If you are building an enclosure from wood, make sure it is untreated and chemical-free. 

You will also need a base that can support the weight of a full-sized Sulcata and is secure enough to prevent anything from getting in or out of the enclosure. For this, you must sink the enclosure at least 24” below ground level.

Whichever option you choose, make sure that you take into consideration the depth of the substrate when measuring wall height. 

Also, you’ll need to ensure that the inside panels of the enclosure are opaque. Reflective surfaces may cause your tortoise to think another tortoise is in the enclosure. This can lead to pacing behavior, which increases the likelihood of stress.

It’s also worth mentioning that you will need separate enclosures from the juvenile stage onward if you have more than one Sulcata since they tend to fight when housed together. 

Indoors

When housing your Sulcata indoors, you’ll need to ensure that the area is well-ventilated to prevent a build-up of humidity and allow a free air flow. 

Enclosures should be designed to facilitate air circulation without creating drafts, thus mimicking the arid conditions of their natural habitat. 

Outdoors

If you live in a climate with year-round temperatures averaging 95-100°F or above, then I recommend housing your Sulcata outdoors. Just be sure to insulate the walls of the enclosure if winter temperatures drop below 70°F.

You will also need a mesh lid to deter pets or nocturnal visitors from getting into the enclosure. 

Substrate

The ground covering of your tortoise’s enclosure (also known as substrate) should consist of natural materials that mimic the sandy soils of their native environment. 

Sulcata likes to dig and burrow, so a combination of organic soil and smooth sand (such as children’s play sand) at a ratio of 70:30 is ideal. Avoid using the builder’s sand as it has sharp edges.

You could also use cypress mulch, coco coil and ReptiSoil. Combining these materials will ensure your tortoise can replicate their natural digging behavior and allow moisture retention to maintain humidity. 

Avoid using sawdust or wood litter pellets because the dust particles can cause respiratory issues and may also be eaten.

According to Arbor View Animal Hospital, the substrate should be between 6” to 12” and pesticide-free. 

Soiled substrate should be removed and replaced daily. 

Temperature

Tortoises are cold-blooded (poikilothermic), which means they are unable to regulate their own body temperature. In their natural environment, they bask in the heat of the morning sun to warm their bodies after the desert’s nighttime drop in temperature.

To prevent stress and potential health issues, it’s critical that pet Sulcata tortoises can live in similar conditions and that consistent temperatures are maintained year-round. For this, you will need a basking spot with average temperatures of 95-100°F during the day. 

For indoor enclosures, these temperatures can be achieved using a basking bulb that will need to be switched on for 10 – 13 hours per day. These should be mounted 8” from the top of the tortoise’s shell and will need to be controlled by a thermostat or dimmer switch. 

Basking bulbs are sufficient for a 4 ft squared basking area, but the bulb wattage you need will depend on the average temperatures in your region. A 75w bulb will be sufficient for regions with year-round warm temperatures. However, in cooler regions you will require a 100w or even a 150w bulb. 

Sulcata tortoises can tolerate nighttime temperatures in the region of 50 to 70°F. This can be replicated using a ceramic night bulb to radiate heat without producing light. Use a bulb guard and a thermometer to monitor temperatures and adjust accordingly if required.

If you live in a warm climate where temperatures are sufficient for your Sulcata to live outdoors, additional heat lamps may not be required unless temperatures drop below 50°F. In this case, you will need to provide a covered area that can be heated.

Lighting

In the wild, tortoises use natural daylight to set their day and night patterns. But that’s not the only benefit these diurnal creatures get from sunlight. 

UVA is essential for their color vision, and UVB allows them to absorb calcium through vitamin D3 synthesis via their skin and carapace (shell). This is vital for maintaining healthy shell development and bone strength throughout their lives. 

UVB exposure during the day replicates their natural habitat and is essential for their mental and physical well-being. 

If you live in a climate with average temperatures of 95-100°F, your tortoise will thrive in an outdoor enclosure, and you won’t need to worry about providing additional UV light. 

However, when kept indoors or in cooler regions, Sulcata will need an artificial UVB light source placed in the basking area that is switched on for a minimum of 11 hours per day, increasing to 13 hours per day during the summer months.  

The UVB light should be half the length of the enclosure, and for safety, you will also require a ceramic fixture. You may need to use reflectors and additional fluorescent grow lights or LEDs for larger enclosures.

Here are some recommendations:

UVB Bulbs:

• Zoo Med ReptiSun 10.0
• Arcadia Desert 12% UVB T5 lamp

Reflective Fixtures:

• Aiicioo T5 HO fixture 

Maintaining the correct amount of UVB depends on how far away the light is and whether you have a mesh covering the enclosure, but you should be aiming for approximately 12 to 18 inches above the basking zone and sufficient distance to prevent the tortoise from touching the bulb.

You can check the UV light levels and determine the bulb’s height for a tortoise’s enclosure with a UV index (UVI) meter. You should be aiming for a UVI of between 4.0 to 6.0. I recommend the Solarmeter 6.5. This standard meter is used to assess bulb output and ensure the levels are safe. 

Bear in mind that light cannot penetrate through glass, so it is not sufficient simply to locate an enclosure near a window.

Humidity

Many people assume that Sulcata tortoises require low humidity levels due to their natural habitat’s dry, arid regions. However, tortoises can be prone to dehydration – especially juveniles – so it’s important to maintain humidity levels at around 70%.

According to Dr Johnson from the Arizona Animal Hospital, Sulcata hatchlings in the wild spend much of their time burrowing under the ground where humidity levels are higher. Dr Johnson further explains that recent research indicates that shell pyramiding – a common problem with pet tortoises as they grow – is thought to be related to a lack of moisture. 

You’ll need to ensure your Sulcata has a sheltered humidity zone, such as a hollowed-out log within the fantastic section of their enclosure. Keep the log shelter and the ground covering damp by using a moisture meter to keep humidity levels in check.

Cleaning

Regular cleaning is essential to prevent the accumulation of waste and bacteria, so spot-cleaning feces daily and removing uneaten food is essential.

In addition to daily spot cleaning, I recommend a deep clean every three months. During a deep clean, all of the substrate should be removed and the entire enclosure should be cleaned out and sanitized using a reptile-safe disinfectant such as Fluker’s Super Scrub. 

Once cleaned, you can replenish with fresh substrate.

Thorough hand washing after interacting with reptiles is essential, as they may carry the Salmonella bacteria. Practising good hygiene before and after handling will help to stop the transfer of bacteria and prevent gastrointestinal discomfort in humans.

Diet

When kept in captivity, a Sulcata tortoise’s diet should be as varied as your budget will allow and ideally filled with a range of tortoise-friendly leaves, flowers, and vegetables. 

They require a diet that contains: 

• Calcium supports bone health and shell development
• High fiber to assist with digestion
• Low protein to avoid excess shell thickening, pyramiding and stress to vital organs

Sulcata are grazers where – in their natural habitat – eating grasses and succulent plants is the main food source; when kept as pets, aim for a diet ratio of 20% flowering plants, succulents, and weeds and 80% grass. 

I recommend feeding adults every other day; however, hatchlings and juveniles need feeding daily. 

Here below is a list of the safest flowering plants, leaves, succulents, and grasses for a Sulcata tortoise to eat. 

To eat well and digest food effectively, tortoises need a sufficiently warm environment of between 70°F and 80°F. Anything lower can lead to a loss of appetite.

However, if you have concerns or are unable to offer enough variety in your tortoise’s diet, you could supplement their food with commercial tortoise food such as Zoo Med Natural Grassland Tortoise Food, and Zoo Med Gourmet Tortoise Food.

It’s a good idea to leave food on a saucer or flat plate as this will help to prevent them from eating the substrate.

What to avoid

• Plants that contain oxalate such as spinach, Swiss chard and beet greens, can bind with calcium and inhibit its effective absorption. 
• Leafy greens (Brassicaceae) such as cabbage are high in goitrogens. These can disrupt thyroid activity in tortoises, which can lead to liver and kidney damage.  
• Large amounts of fruit can lead to digestive issues and may encourage parasites. 
• Salad leaves can cause loose stools. They offer little in the way of nutritional value and are low in fiber.

Supplements

All breeds of tortoise require calcium and phosphorus to support bone and shell health. The latter occurs naturally in much of a tortoise’s diet and is easily absorbed. 

When it comes to absorbing the correct levels of calcium, tortoises need vitamin D. Just like humans, they synthesize vitamin D either via the sun’s UV rays or via a UV lamp. 

A lack of vitamin D will quickly result in depleted calcium absorption, which can manifest as poor bone growth and softening or pyramiding of the shell. Veterinarians typically recommend a calcium supplement dust that can be sprinkled on their food to boost supplies of this vital vitamin. 

Placing Cuttlefish bone in your tortoise’s enclosure will not only help to regulate calcium intake, but also prevent its beak from becoming overgrown.  

Tortoises can be prone to periods of stress, which is typically caused by poor care and maintenance, and environmental conditions. When stress occurs, they tend to lose their appetite causing their vitamin C levels to quickly deplete. Addressing poor husbandry will help to reduce stress levels and increase appetite.

When stressed or when infection occurs, you may be advised by your veterinarian to supplement vitamin A, C and E intake, or a combination of all three. Vitamin A is essential for supporting gut health – a common ailment with tortoises, and vitamin E is used to boost the immune system.

Drinking Water

Place a shallow container (no deeper than your pet’s elbow) in both the cooler part and the basking area of their enclosure. Keep them replenished with freshwater daily as tortoises are prone to dehydration and will often foul their water.   

If the tap water in your region is safe for human consumption, then it will be safe for your tortoise to drink. If, however, your tap water contains high levels of chlorine, chloramine, and heavy metals, then you should consider alternative options such as filtered or purified water, or even bottled spring water.

Care

Sulcatas are known for their docile and curious nature and are often referred to by keepers as gentle giants due to their tolerance of humans. 

However, being handled can cause stress – especially among adults, plus their size makes them difficult to handle. 

Sulcata hatchlings may look cute, but it’s important to keep in mind that they will quickly grow and require life-long care and maintenance which requires a huge amount of dedication, time, and money. 

Taking on the responsibility of caring for a tortoise of this size comes with many challenges, so here’s a look at what you might encounter.  

Enrichment

Enrichment activities for your tortoise promote mental stimulation, physical exercise, and are crucial for their well-being.

As a minimum, enclosures should contain areas to bask, cool down, shelter, sleep, eat, drink, and stay hydrated. Then, in addition to substrate for digging and burrowing activities, objects of interest, décor and vegetation can be used to enhance their well-being further.

Sporadically placed items such as rocks, hollow logs, mounds of dirt, and tortoise-friendly vegetation can all be used to create interest, stimulate their natural instincts, and encourage your Sulcata to explore. 

Bathing

Regular bathing in shallow, lukewarm water is a great way to hydrate and keep your Sulcata clean. It can also help with bowel movements.

A daily gentle soaking in shallow, lukewarm water is particularly important for hatchlings to prevent them from dehydrating. Water temperatures should not exceed 85°F and should come up no further than their knees.

Handling

Given their size, strength, and reluctance to be handled, particularly in adult specimens, it is vital to use handling techniques that ensure the well-being and safety of both the tortoise and the handler. 

Sulcata tortoises thrive on stability and routine, and so excessive handling can induce stress, and can cause health issues or behavioral changes. I recommend keeping interactions to a minimum to maintain respect for the tortoise’s comfort and natural behaviors.

That said, handling is necessary for health inspections, enclosure cleaning, and veterinary visits, so here are some guidelines to ensure safe and stress-free handling:

1. Approach your Sulcata calmly and gently, allowing it to become aware of your presence before attempting to pick it up. Abrupt movements can startle them, causing stress or defensive behaviors.
2. When lifting a Sulcata tortoise, place one hand beneath the plastron (the shell’s bottom) and the other hand on the carapace (the shell’s top). This provides support to the tortoise’s body, reducing the risk of injury. 
3. Adult tortoises weigh between 75 to 100 lbs and will require two or more people for a safe lift. It’s critical to ensure that the tortoise’s weight is evenly distributed and supported to avoid mishandling or injury. 
4. Keep the handling duration as brief as possible to minimize stress and reduce the risk of subsequent health issues. 
5. Carry out the necessary tasks efficiently, then, return the tortoise to its familiar environment promptly and with care.
6. Keep a close eye on your Sulcata in the days after it has been handled. Look out for any signs of stress or discomfort. 

Health Issues

Bladder stones are a common condition in Sulcatas and are thought to occur due to nutritional imbalances caused by poor diet, lack of exercise and dehydration.  

If identified early, the condition can be treated by removal via the cloaca. However, in extreme cases, the stones can cause excessive pain and may grow large enough to completely obstruct the passing of waste.

Shell pyramiding is an abnormal, raised growth pattern of the scutes on their shells, resulting in a pyramid-like appearance (shown in the picture below). This condition can be caused by improper nutrition (excessive protein and calories), lack of proper UVB lighting (which leads to poor calcium metabolism), and inadequate humidity levels. 

Pyramiding can lead to structural shell deformities, potentially affecting the tortoise’s internal organ function and overall health. 

To prevent the potential for shell pyramiding, provide a balanced diet that is low in protein, ensure access to adequate UVB light, and maintain appropriate humidity levels within the tortoise’s enclosure. 

MBD (Metabolic Bone Disease) also known as hyperparathyroidism, carries a significant risk to the health of captive Sulcata tortoises. It is primarily caused by nutritional imbalances and is characterized by weakened bones and, in severe cases, deformities. 

It is known to be caused by a lack of adequate UVB light exposure and calcium deficiency. This disease is completely avoidable if you equip your tortoise’s enclosure with a sufficient UVB light source and supplement their diet with calcium. 

Reduced activity levels can occur during cooler seasons, but this should not be mistaken for hibernation. Unlike many tortoise species, Sulcata tortoises do not naturally hibernate. If you observe reduced activity, I recommend checking the temperature of the enclosure or installing insulation. 

Citations:

• The Tortoise Trust – Caring for Sulcata
• Arizona Exotic – Basic African Sulcata Tortoise Care
• Arizona Exotic –Tortoise Shell Pyramiding
• Arbor View – Sulcata Guide 
• Royal Veterinary Collage London – Tortoise Bladder Stones
• Reptile.com – Sulcata Enclosure Care Guide