Hermann’s Tortoise Care: A Comprehensive Guide

Hermann’s tortoises (Testudo hermanni) are known for their manageable size and pleasant temperament, making them a popular choice for hobbyists and tortoise enthusiasts alike.

Native to southern Europe, there are three types of Hermann’s tortoise, each of which inhabit specific regions of the Mediterranean where they live in woodland, scrubland, and grassy habitats.

Understanding Hermann’s Tortoises

The Western Hermann’s Tortoise and the Eastern Hermann’s Tortoise are both sub-species.

The Dalmatian Hermann’s tortoise is generally considered a regional variant or morph of the Eastern Hermann’s tortoise. However, this is strongly contested among experts, who claim it’s taxonomy should be elevated to sub-species due to a small number of distinguishable characteristics.

Now let’s dig a little deeper into each species’ specific characteristics.

Western Hermann’s Tortoise (Testudo hermanni hermanni)

This subspecies is the smallest and most colorful of the three and is found predominantly in Spain, France, Italy, and some Mediterranean islands such as Corsica, Sardinia, and Majorca.

The carapace (shell) of the Western Hermann’s tortoise is beautifully decorated with black and vibrant yellowy-gold markings that are often more pronounced and intricate than those of its eastern counterpart.

They are instantly recognizable thanks to the keyhole-shaped marking that can be found on the lower part of their shell at the rear and a yellow spot behind each eye. This is known as the sub-ocular patch.

They have yellow skin and the bottom shell, or plastron, displays two distinct black bands down the center.

Eastern Hermann’s Tortoise (Testudo hermanni boettgeri)

The Eastern Hermann’s tortoise is the most popular reptile pet in the world and its natural habitat is more widespread, where they are found throughout southeastern Europe, including Greece, Bulgaria, Romania, Turkey, and former Yugoslav republics.

This subspecies has a rounder carapace with more subdued coloration and patterning compared to the Western. The black markings on their plastron are also less pronounced.

Dalmatian Hermann’s Tortoise (Testudo hermanni Hercegovinensis)

The Dalmatian variant is similar in size to the Eastern but can only be found living wild along the Dalmatian coast, which spans parts of Croatia, Bosnia and Herzegovina, and Montenegro.

The most distinguishing feature of this variant is the two distinct fluorescent green or yellow semi-circle markings on its head. Its snout is also more rounded than either of the other two sub-species and its eyes are larger in comparison.

The shell color of the Dalmatian Hermann’s can range from typical yellow and black to a more muted, sometimes almost pastel-like color palette. Their carapace markings (known as scutes) are also less defined than their cousins.

The main similarities between the Hermann’s species are their sturdy, domed shells and general color patterns of yellow and black. They all consume a diet of grasses, weeds, flowers and leafy vegetables, and they all exhibit similar behaviors, such as burrowing and hibernation (referred to a brumation for these cold-blooded reptiles).

Lifespan and Size

The table below is based on typical growth patterns for captive tortoises, where diet and care can significantly influence growth rates and adult size.

While all species are similar in weight and size as hatchlings, captive Western Hermann’s are generally smaller in adulthood with a shorter lifespan.

Easterns and Dalmatians tend to live longer due to their larger size and robust nature.

Choosing the Right Enclosure

Captive Hermann’s tortoise’s need a home that replicates their natural habitat. Not only do they need enough space to roam and sufficient light and heat, but they also need hiding spots and a place to burrow.

A single tortoise requires a minimum enclosure space of 6ft x 2ft, ideally larger to allow for adequate exercise.

An outdoor enclosure that is secure, predator-proof, and provides natural sunlight is best but this all depends on the climate in your region. Make sure to sink the enclosure walls at least 12” below surface level to prevent any escape attempts!

For enrichment, provide at least one hiding spot, such as wooden hides, overturned boxes, and hollowed out logs. You could also plant edible plants such as clover, dandelion, and Timothy grass.

Lighting

All tortoises require UVB light to synthesize vitamin D3. Without vitamin D, your tortoise can’t absorb or metabolize the amount of calcium it needs to remain healthy.

For indoor enclosures, use a reptile-specific UVB bulb such as Lucky Herp T5 UVB 10.0 fluorescent tube. You’ll need to provide sufficient light to cover at least 30-50% of the enclosure.

To maintain a natural light cycle, keep the light switched on for 14 hours in summer and 10-12 hours during winter.

Heating

Tortoises are cold-blooded animals which means they need to self-regulate their body temperature. In their natural Mediterranean habitat daytime temperatures in the summer are between 90 to 95°F (32-35°C), with temperatures dropping to around 60°F (15°C) at night.

Their natural behavior is to bask in the heat of the morning sun to increase their body temperature after the nighttime lows.

To replicate this in an indoor enclosure you’ll need a basking spot at one end of the enclosure and a cooler area of around 70-80°F (21-27°C) at the other.

The basking spot will need to be heated with a ceramic heat emitter that should be mounted 12 inches from the top of your tortoises’ shell.

There are plenty of options available but my personal recommendation are Mercury Vapor Basking Bulbs which provide heat as well as UVA and UVB light.

Make sure you buy one with a dimmer switch so you can reduce the heat if it exceeds 95°F. You’ll also need a digital thermometer to constantly monitor basking zone temperatures and adjust accordingly.

Humidity

Despite their dry, arid natural habitat, Hermann’s tortoises can get dehydrated quickly and therefore require humidity in the region of 30-50%.

I recommend buying a hygrometer to monitor humidity levels within the enclosure and mist the substrate if you need to increase the humidity.

Substrate

In their natural environment, Hermann’s tortoises like to burrow not only to exercise, but also to escape the intense heat.

Choose a reptile-friendly substrate that is both well-draining and will help to maintain humidity and lay this in the base of the enclosure at a depth of between 6-12 inches.  

To make your own substrate mix a 50/50 combination of organic topsoil with untreated bark chips or coco coir.

Diet and Feeding

In the wild, Hermann’s tortoises are opportunistic feeders, where they roam the surrounding area in search of grasses and hay, leafy weeds, edible flowers and even vegetables.

In captivity, tortoises need a high fiber, calcium-rich diet with as much variety as possible from the following lists:

• Grasses and Hay: Timothy hay, Bermuda grass
• Leafy Greens: Dandelion greens Clover Endive, Mustard greens, Kale
• Vegetables: Carrot, Squash and Bell pepper occasionally
• Edible Flowers: Nasturtiums, Hibiscus, Dandelions

In addition, sprinkle calcium powder on their food 2-3 times a week to prevent metabolic bone disease (MBC) and always provide a supply of fresh drinking water.

Tortoises are prone to digestive issues and diarrhea. This occurs when they ingest food that they are unable to process. Avoid feeding your tortoise any of the following:

• Fruit: Hermann’s tortoises do not digest sugar well. Some keepers argue they can be given berries as an occasional treat, but this should be very infrequent.
• Dairy Products: Tortoises cannot process dairy and are unable to tolerate protein in their diet.
• High Protein Foods: Avoid giving them protein-rich foods like dog food, cat food, or meat as these can cause rapid growth and shell deformities.

Young tortoises need food little and often to help with development and to avoid dehydration, but captive adults are prone to rapid growth which leads to health problems such as pyramiding on the shell.

To help your Hermann’s tortoise grow at a steady rate and to avoid complications caused by weight gain, I recommend the following feeding schedules:

• Hatchlings (0-1 year): Offer small pieces of food for 30 minutes each day.
• Juveniles (1-4 years): Feed every other day.
• Adults (4+ years): Feed every two to three days with a high ratio of fiber.

Care

It’s important to remember that Hermann’s tortoises are wild animals that are naturally timid and not accustomed to being handled.

That said, many Hermann’s do quickly adapt to their captive surroundings, and quickly learn to become less shy and even understanding that their keeper is the provider of food.   

Patience is key when it comes to building a bond with your tortoise. Spending time each day to observe it’s behavior, and occasionally offering food from your hand may help to build trust.

Just be sure to make slow, gentle movements, avoid loud noises, and keep handling to a minimum.

Enrichment

Tortoises need enrichment activities for physical exercise and to keep their mind stimulated.

Their housing should include an area for basking, a shelter, plus objects of interest such as rocks, mounds of dirt, hollowed out logs and vegetation.

Bathing

Even though these tortoises originate from arid and dry habitats, they need water to prevent dehydration. Apart from keeping your tortoise hydrated and clean, soaking regularly also helps them to shed dead skin and promotes healthy shell development.

Hatchlings are especially prone to drying out and will benefit from being bathed every other day. Adults should be bathed weekly and more often if they are sick.

Keep water temperature around 80°F to 85°F and at a depth no deeper than chin height. Restrict bathing time to 15 to 30 minutes and don’t leave your tortoise unattended.

Handling

Although Hermann’s tortoises are docile, too much handling can cause unnecessary stress.

Try to keep picking them up and moving them around to a minimum and always wash your hands before and after touching them to prevent the spread of bacteria or contaminants.

When you do need to move your tortoise, always support the base of its shell with one hand, and gently support the top of the shell with the other hand. This avoids any feeling of insecurity or discomfort for the tortoise.

It’s natural that you’ll want to interact with your pet, so always use slow movements and a gentle tone of voice as this will help to build confidence and trust.

When your tortoise feels comfortable with your presence, you may wish to introduce a gentle stroke on the top of its head or along its neck. Keep a close eye on how it reacts. If it doesn’t show signs of stress or discomfort, you know it’s okay to keep doing it. Otherwise, you should back off and be patient.

Common Health Issues

Like all chelonians, Hermann’s tortoises can encounter specific health issues, particularly if their environment or diet is not well managed. Here are some of the most common health problems that keepers should look out for and treat quickly if they arise:

1. Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD)

MBD is caused by calcium deficiency and can lead to a soft or misshapen shell (shell pyramiding), loss of appetite, lethargy, limb weakness, and in severe cases, fractures.

When symptoms occur, increase calcium intake by dusting food with calcium powder and check the UV bulb. Bulbs older than 6 months may have stopped emitting UV which is crucial for vitamin D3 production and calcium metabolism.

2. Respiratory Infections

Inadequate temperatures or excessive humidity are the primary reasons for respiratory infections and can cause symptoms such as nasal discharge, wheezing, lethargy, loss of appetite, and in severe cases, open-mouth breathing.

Start by raising the temperature in the enclosure by 5 degrees. Enclosures need to be well-ventilated and dry at night so avoid misting after midday.

If symptoms persist, contact your veterinary for a tortoise health check. Severe cases may need to be treated with anti-biotics.

3. Parasitic Infections

Typically caused by contaminated food, water, or poor hygiene in the enclosure, symptoms include weight loss, diarrhea, lethargy, or a bloated abdomen.

Diagnosis can only be made by a vet and treatment includes prescribed antiparasitic medication so it’s worth getting your tortoise checked if they display any of the above symptoms.

To avoid, regularly remove soiled substrate, keep water containers sanitized and provide fresh water daily.

4. Shell Rot

Keeping your tortoise’s enclosure clean and dry, and ensuring the substrate is not overly moist can help to prevent fungal or bacterial infections of the shell. Symptoms include soft, discolored, or foul-smelling patches on the shell.

Treat by cleaning the affected area with an antifungal or antibacterial solution, as prescribed by a vet. Known as debridement, severe cases might need to be removed.

Selecting Your Tortoise

Okay, so you have a safe enclosure, you understand what they can eat, and you know how to provide the best level of care. Now, it’s time to choose your tortoise.

Here are some top tips to guide you through the selection process to ensure you bring home a pet that will thrive under your care.

1. Choose a tortoise from a reputable breeder that can provide health records and information about the tortoise’s origin and care.
2. Look for a tortoise that is active and alert and is eating well.
3. The body should be firm and well-filled out, without any visible wounds or abnormalities. The limbs should be strong and capable of pulling the tortoise along.
4. The eyes should be bright and clear, and the shell should be smooth and well-formed with no cracks, chips, or signs of pyramiding (raised scutes).
5. Listen for any wheezing, clicking, or whistling sounds when it breathes, as this can indicate respiratory issues.
6. Before making your final choice, consider having a veterinarian who specializes in reptiles examine the tortoise, particularly if you’re adopting an adult or a rescue animal.
7. If you already have other tortoises, quarantine the new arrival to monitor its health and prevent the transmission of possible diseases.

Costs

If you’re serious about taking ownership of a Hermann’s tortoise, you need to be fully aware of all the costs involved for their care and maintenance.

Here below is a detailed breakdown that covers each of the upfront costs plus everything you need to consider for their upkeep:

Upfront Costs

Annual and Ongoing Maintenance Costs

Tips for Cost Management

Although I strongly advice against cutting corners when it comes to providing the right environment and care for captive tortoises, there are ways you can spend less both for the initial set up costs and for ongoing maintenance.

For example, you could consider building your own enclosure or growing some of the tortoise’s food if you have space.

You could also invest in energy-efficient lamps and thermostats to help keep electricity costs down.

You will always need a constant supply of substrate, so if you have the space, why not buy in bulk? Although it requires an initial upfront cost, it can be more cost-effective in the long run.

Citations

Texas A & M University – Brumation

Exotic Direct – Build Your Own Tortoise Enclosure